PWM Dimmer Motor Speed Controller Circuit Diagram

This is yet another project born of necessity. It's a simple circuit, but does exactly what it's designed to do - dim LED lights or control the speed of 12V DC motors. The circuit uses PWM to regulate the effective or average current through the LED array, 12V incandescent lamp (such as a car headlight bulb) or DC motor. The only difference between the two modes of operation is the addition of a power diode for motor speed control, although a small diode should be used for dimmers too, in case long leads are used which will create an inductive back EMF when the MOSFET switches off.

  

hoto of Completed PWM Dimmer/Speed Control

The photo shows what a completed board looks like. Dimensions are 53 x 37mm, so it's possible to install it into quite small spaces. The parts used are readily available, and many subsitiutions are available for both the MOSFET and power diode (the latter is only needed for motor speed control). The opamps should not be substituted, because the ones used were chosen for low power and their ability to swing the output to the negative supply rail. Note that if used as a motor speed controller, there is no feedback, so motor speed will change with load. For many applications where DC motors are used, constant speed regardless of load is not needed or desirable, but it is up to you to decide if this will suit your needs.

Description

First, a description of PWM is warranted. As the pot is rotated clockwise, the input voltage changes linearly with rotation. At first, the voltage is such that the comparator output is just narrow spikes, which turn the MOSFET on for a very short period. Average current is low, so connected LEDs will be quite dim, or a motor will run (relatively) slowly. As the input voltage coming from the pot increases, the MOSFET is on for longer and longer, so increasing power to the load.

figure 1 - PWM Waveform Generation

Figure 1 shows how the PWM principle works. The red trace is the triangle wave reference voltage, and the green trace is the voltage from the pot. When the input voltage is greater than the reference voltage, the MOSFET turns on, and current flows in the load. Because the frequency is relatively high (about 600Hz), we don't see any flicker from the LEDs, but the tone is audible from a motor that's PWM controlled. The PWM signal is shown in blue. The average current through the load is determined by the ratio of on-time to off-time, and when both are equal, the average current is exactly half of that which would be drawn with DC.

Figure 2 - Dimmer/Speed Controller Schematic

The circuit is shown in Figure 2. U1 is the oscillator, and generates a triangular waveform. R4 and R5 simply set a half voltage reference, so the opamps can function around a 6V centre voltage. U2A is an amplifier, and its output is a 10V peak to peak triangle wave that is used by the comparator based on U2B. This circuit compares the voltage from the pot with the triangle wave. If the input voltage is at zero, the comparator's output remains low, and the MOSFET is off. This is the zero setting. In reality, the reference triangle waveform is from a minimum of about 1.5V to a maximum of 9.5V, so there is a small section at each end of the pot's rotation where nothing happens. 

This is normal and practical, since we want a well defined off and maximum setting. Because of this range, for lighting applications, an industry standard 0-10V DC control signal can be used to set the light level. C-BUS (as well as many other home automation systems) can provide 0-10V modules that can control the dimmer. While a 1N4004 diode is shown for D2, this is only suitable if the unit is used as a dimmer. For motor speed control, a high-current fast recovery diode is needed, such as a HFA15TB60PBF ultra-fast HEXFRED diode. There are many possibilities for the diode, so you can use whatever is readily available that has suitable ratings. The diode should be rated for at least half the full load current of the motor, and the HFA15TB60PBF suggested is good for 15A continuous, so is fine with motors drawing up to 30A.

Construction

While it's certainly possible to build the dimmer on veroboard or similar, it's rather fiddly to make and mistakes are easily made. Also, be aware that because of the current the circuit can handle, you will need to use thick wires to reinforce some of the thin tracks. This is even necessary for the PCB version. Naturally, I recommend the PCB, and this is available from ESP. The board is small - 53 x 37mm, and it carries everything, including the screw terminals. The PCB is double-sided with plated-through holes, and has solder masks on both sides. The MOSFET will need a heatsink unless you are using the dimmer for light loads only. It is necessary to insulate the MOSFET from the heatsink in most cases, since the case of the transistor is the drain (PWM output).

For use at high current and possible high temperatures, the heatsink may need to be larger than expected. Although the MOSFET should normally only dissipate about 2W or so at 10A, it will dissipate a lot more if it's allowed to get hot. Switching MOSFETs will cheerfully go into thermal runaway and self destruct if they have inadequate heatsinking. You may also use an IGBT (insulated gate bipolar transistor) - most should have the same pinouts, and they do not suffer from the same thermal runaway problem as MOSFETs. As noted above, there are many different MOSFETs (or IGBTs) and fast diodes that are usable. The IRF540 MOSFET is a good choice, and being rated 27A it has a generous safety margin. There are many others that are equally suitable - in fact any switching MOSFET rated at 10A or more, and with a maximum voltage of more than 20V is quite ok.

Testing

Connect to a suitable 12V power supply. When powering up for the first time, use a 100 ohm "safety" resisor in series with the positive supply to limit the current if you have made a mistake in the wiring. The total current drain is about 2.5mA with the pot fully off, rising to 12.5mA when fully on. Most of this current is in the LED, which is also fed from the PWM supply so you can see that everything is working without having to connect a load. Make sure that the pot is fully anti-clockwise (minimum), and apply power. You should measure no more than 0.25V across the safety resistor, rising to 1.25V with the pot at maximum. If satisfactory, remove the safety resistor and install a load. High intensity LED strip lights can draw up to ~1.5A each, and this dimmer should be able to drive up to 10 of them, depending on the capabilities of the power supply and the size of the heatsink for the MOSFET.

source: http://streampowers.blogspot.com/2012/06/pwm-dimmermotor-speed-controller.html

Converting a DCM Motor

We recently bought a train set made by a renowned company and just couldn’t resist looking inside the locomotive. Although it did have an electronic decoder, the DCM motor was already available 35 (!) years ago. It is most likely that this motor is used due to financial constraints, because Märklin (as you probably guessed) also has a modern 5-pole motor as part of its range. Incidentally, they have recently introduced a brushless model. 

The DCM motor used in our locomotive is still an old-fashioned 3-pole series motor with an electromagnet to provide motive power. The new 5-pole motor has a permanent magnet. We therefore wondered if we couldn’t improve the driving characteristics if we powered the field winding separately, using a bridge rectifier and a 27 Ω current limiting resistor. This would effectively create a permanent magnet. The result was that the driving characteristics improved at lower speeds, but the initial acceleration remained the same. But a constant 0.5 A flows through the winding, which seems wasteful of the (limited) track power. A small circuit can reduce this current to less than half, making this technique more acceptable. 

Circuit diagram :

Converting a DCM Motor Circuit Diagram

The field winding has to be disconnected from the rest (3 wires). A freewheeling diode (D1, Schottky) is then connected across the whole winding. The centre tap of the winding is no longer used. When FET T1 turns on, the current through the winding increases from zero until it reaches about 0.5 A. At this current the voltage drop across R4-R7 becomes greater than the reference voltage across D2 and the opamp will turn off the FET. The current through the winding continues flowing via D1, gradually reducing in strength. When the current has fallen about 10% (due to hysteresis caused by R3), IC1 will turn on T1 again. The cur-rent will increase again to 0.5 A and the FET is turned off again. This goes on continuously.

The current through the field winding is fairly constant, creating a good imitation of a permanent magnet. The nice thing about this circuit is that the total current consumption is only about 0.2 A, whereas the current flow through the winding is a continuous 0.5 A. 

We made this modification because we wanted to convert the locomotive for use with a DCC decoder. A new controller is needed in any case, because the polarity on the rotor winding has to be reversed to change its direction of rotation. In the original motor this was done by using the other half of the winding.

There is also a good non-electrical alter-native: put a permanent magnet in the motor. But we didn’t have a suitable magnet, whereas all electronic parts could be picked straight from the spares box. 

Author : Karel Walraven

zBot :10-A Power Stage for DC Motor Circuit Diagram . If you look at the chassis of the zBot vehicle1, you’ll find two parts requiring intelligent control: the steering servo and the DC motor. The so called H-bridge is the normal circuit for electronic control of revolution speed and direction. The DC motor of a Tamiya car is powerful enough to propel zBot at up to 20 miles per hour.
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The motor then consumes more than 10 A, so we choose high-current power MOSFETs for the driver stage. There are lots of different devices to choose from. The MOSFET we require has to supply the maximum motor current and, importantly, it has to be switched with gate voltages of about 5 V. In this case, the microcontroller switches the power stage (‘low side’) directly. For high side driving level shifters are necessary. The schematic of the H-bridge power stage shows a few inverters, NAND gates and two tri-stateable drivers. These logic functions are very important as the easier way, i.e.., directly controlling all four MOSFET has a fatal disadvantage.

zBot :10-A Power Stage for DC Motor Circuit Diagram

In case of a software crash it could happen that two ore more MOSFETs are switched on incor-rectly for exam-ple, T4 and T7. In that case, the current through the transistors is limited by the internal resistors of the MOSFETs (about 10 mO) only. Such a fatal error would destroy the MOSFETs. The logic functions configured here effectively avoid illegal states.To control the DC motor, three signals are needed: DIR, PWM and STOP. DIR controls the direction of the motor revolution, PWM the speed, and STOP brakes the motor.

The software module for the DC motor is called dcm.c.(070172-I) The complete document called Zbot  the Robot Experimental Platform is available for free downloading from the Elektor Electronics website. The file number is 070172-11.zip (July/August 2007).

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