Secret Diagram: How

Showing posts with label How. Show all posts

Saturday, 25 March 2017

How to use LEDs introduction

ladyada.net has write a new article on how to use LEDs for people making their first steps on electronics. It talks about LED polarity, the various kinds of LEDs, what are LEDs used for, changing the brightness with resistors, changing the brightness with voltage, learn how to calculate the current limiting resistor etc.

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Saturday, 18 March 2017

How to control LM2596 buck converter with microcontroller

Every now and then someone asks on different forums if there is an way to control cheap LM2596 modules with an Arduino or another microcontroller. I decided to demonstrate one solution that might be basic electronics for some, but still many don’t know about.

Those buck converters will change the output voltage to make the feedback pin, connected to the output via a voltage divider, become 1.25V or so. If feedback is higher, output gets lower and vice versa. If one changes the ratio of resistors in voltage divider, output voltage will change. This is usually done by turning a trimmer resistor with a screwdriver. That is good enough for many applications where voltage will be set only once, but sometimes there is a need to adjust the output voltage more frequently.[ ]

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Sunday, 12 March 2017

how to solar panel works

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Wednesday, 8 March 2017

How to build Digital Step Km Counter Circuit Schematic

Description

This circuit measures the distance covered during a walk. Hardware is located in a small box slipped in pants' pocket and the display is conceived in the following manner: the leftmost display D2 (the most significant digit) shows 0 to 9 Km. and its dot is always on to separate Km. from hm. The rightmost display D1 (the least significant digit) shows hundreds meters and its dot illuminates after every 50 meters of walking.

A beeper (excludable), signals each count unit, occurring every two steps. A normal step was calculated to span around 78 centimeters, thus the LED signaling 50 meters illuminates after 64 steps (or 32 operations of the mercury switch), the display indicates 100 meters after 128 steps and so on.

For low battery consumption the display illuminates only on request, pushing on P2. Accidental reset of the counters is avoided because to reset the circuit both pushbuttons must be operated together. Obviously, this is not a precision meter, but its approximation degree was found good for this kind of device. In any case, the most critical thing to do is the correct placement of the mercury switch inside of the box and the setting of its sloping degree.

Circuit diagram:

Parts:

R1 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 2.2M 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 1M 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 47R 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 1K 1/4W Resistor
C1 = 47nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2 = 100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C3 = 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C4 = 10µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Hundreds meters)
D2 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Kilometers)
Q1 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
Q2 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
P1 = SPST Pushbutton (Reset)
P2 = SPST Pushbutton (Display)
IC1 = 4093 Quad 2 input Schmitt NAND Gate IC
IC2 = 4024 7 stage ripple counter IC
IC3 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
IC4 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
SW1 = SPST Mercury Switch, called also Tilt Switch
SW2 = SPST Slider Switch (Sound on-off)
SW3 = SPST Slider Switch (Power on-off)
BZ = Piezo sounder
B1 = 3V Battery (2 AA 1.5V Cells in series)

Circuit operation:

IC 1A & IC 1B form a monostable multi vibrator providing some degree of freedom from excessive bouncing of the mercury switch. Therefore a clean square pulse enters IC2 that divides by 64. Q2 drives the LED dot-segment of D1 every 32 pulses counted by IC2. Either IC3 & IC4 divide by 10 and drive the displays. P1 resets the counters and P2 enables the displays. IC1C generates an audio frequency square wave that is enabled for a short time at each monostable count. Q1 drives the piezo sounder and SW2 allows disabling the beep.

Notes:

Experiment with placement and sloping degree of mercury switch inside the box: this is very critical.
Try to obtain a pulse every two walking steps. Listening to the beeper is extremely useful during setup.
Trim R6 value to change beeper sound power.
Push P1 and P2 to reset.
This circuit is primarily intended for walking purposes. For jogging, further great care must be used with mercury switch placement to avoid undesired counts.
When the display is disabled current consumption is negligible, therefore SW3 can be omitted.

Source http://www.extremecircuits.net/2009/12/digital-step-km-counter-circuit.htm

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Sunday, 22 January 2017

How to make a guitar cable

Today we're going to do a quick run through of how to make a guitar cable. It’s a pretty simple procedure, but if you’ve never made one before, it can be a little bit daunting at first.

To make a cable, you will need to following items:

Some cable
Two ¼” jack plugs

And the following tools:

A soldering iron and some solder
Wire cutters/strippers/pliers

Here’s the cable we're going to use:

And we're going to use two of these jack plugs:

I really like this design of plug (and I’ve used a tonne of different ones over the years). To open it, you unscrew the end cap/cable relief:

Then lift up the cover:

Which reveals the following:

Obviously you can use a different design if you like.

Today we're making a short cable that will go between effects pedals. There’s nothing different between this sort of cable and a standard guitar cable, apart from the length.

This one, we're going to cut to 20cm (8”):

Then trim the outer sleeve back by 15mm (a little under 5/8”):

We trim the inner wire insulation back by a few mm and then twist the end of the wire together. The outer shielding wiring is also gathered and twisted together:

All of this is done at both ends, leaving us with this:

We then slide any necessary items over the cable before doing any soldering. You’ll get away with forgetting this for the first plug, since you can always slide it on from the other end after soldering. However, for the second plug, it’ll be too late and you’ll have to unsolder something to fix it.

Next step is to melt a couple of healthy blobs of solder onto the two positions where we intend to attach wires.

Then we “tin” the wires, which is to say, we melt a little bit of solder onto them:

We're also going to cut the outer ground wire a little shorter, so that it fits its position on the plug better:

Now we solder the wires on. When doing this, try not to keep the soldering iron on the plug for an extended amount of time, as some of them can be ruined very easily.

Firstly, the ground wire:

And then the positive/tip wire:

Before closing up, we need to secure the cable by tightening the metal clamp as follows:

Then we place the cover back in place:

And tighten the end plug/cable relief:

We do the same for the other end of the cable:

And here’s the end result:

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Tuesday, 20 December 2016

How Amazon to ship Android based gaming console by years end

Online mega-retailer Amazon may be planning to release an Android-based gaming console by the end of the year, if rumors prove correct.

Citing "those ... who have knowledge of the in-development hardware," Game Informer claims Bezos & Co. may be readying the device to ship by "Black Friday" – the day after the US Thanksgiving holiday, traditionally the start of the holiday shopping season, which this year falls on November 29.

Details of the plan are virtually nonexistent, but this isn't the first time El Reg has heard murmurs that Amazon may be planning to broaden its hardware line beyond its Kindle e-readers and tablets.

In May, The Wall Street Journal reported that Amazon was operating a secretive facility in Apple's hometown of Cupertino, California, known only as "Lab 126," where it was working on at least four hush-hush hardware projects.

Two of those were said to be Amazon-branded smartphones, a perennial topic of discussion among rumormongers. A third was thought to be some kind of set-top device for streaming Amazon Prime video (Chromecast competitor, anyone?).

Details of the fourth project were less clear. The WSJ reckoned it might be some sort of standalone streaming audio player, but those are a bit passé in the age of the smartphone. Could an Android-powered gaming console be the answer?

Maybe, but if Amazon is planning to get into the gaming biz this Christmas, it will face tough competition. Both Microsoft and Sony are expected to launch their next-generation consoles in the same period, and many customers have already preordered one or the other.

Amazon's wouldn't be the first gaming device based on Android, either. Nvidia released its portable Shield device at the end of July, and sales of the Kickstarter-funded Ouya microconsole have been modest.

Still, there's reason to believe Amazon may be able to outflank these competitors in the Android gaming market, owing to its strong brand and its mature sales infrastructure.

The Amazon Appstore already works on most current Android devices as well as Kindle tablets, so adapting it for an Android-based console should be trivial. Earlier this week, Amazon opened its developer program to web-based content in addition to native apps, giving Appstore customers access to offerings from a wide range of developers. And when your Reg hack checked on Friday, Amazon's top ten bestselling apps were all games.

By Neil McAllister

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Wednesday, 7 December 2016

How to Repairing Switching Power Supply

Up to date power supply are renowned as "switching controller power supply." In most swapping supply, the 110 volt AC input is first rectified by two diodes and filtered by a pair of capacitors. This conceives two high- voltage causes; one positive and the other negative. A pair of transistors is then utilized to switch these high voltage supply over the primary winding of a transformer.

This switching activity is very fast. A usual switching pace is around 40,000 circuits per second or 40KHz. An integrated circuit is commonly utilised to control the transistors. This IC not only controls the pace at which the transistors are swapped, but furthermore controls the amount of time that each transistor is energized. The yield voltage of the power supply is very resolute by the "on" time of the transistors. If the transistors are hold on for a longer time span of time, the output voltage of the provide will rise, while shorter times smaller the yield voltage. This is renowned as "pulse-width modulation."

Power Supply

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