Telephone line Based Audio Muting and Light On Circuit

Telephone line Based Audio Muting and Light-On Circuit. Very often when enjoying music or watching TV at high audio level, we may not be able to hear a telephone ring and thus miss an important incoming phone call. To overcome this situation, the circuit presented here can be used. The circuit would automatically light a bulb on arrival of a telephone ring and simultaneously mute the music system/TV audio for the duration the telephone handset is off-hook. Lighting of the bulb would not only indicate an incoming call but also help in locating the telephone during darkness.
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Circuit diagram :

Telephone line Based Audio Muting and Light-On Circuit Diagram 
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On arrival of a ring, or when the handset is off-hook, the inbuilt transistor of IC1 (opto-coupler) conducts and capacitor C1 gets charged and, in turn, transistor T1 gets forward biased. As a result, transistor T1 conducts, causing energisation of relays RL1, RL2, and RL3. Diode D1 connected in antiparallel to inbuilt diode of IC1, in shunt with resistor R1, provides an easy path for AC current and helps in limiting the voltage across inbuilt diode to a safe value during the ringing. (The RMS value of ring voltage lies between 70 and 90 volts RMS.) Capacitor C1 maintains necessary voltage for continuously forward biasing  transistor T1 so that the relays are not energised during the negative half cycles and off-period of ring signal. Once the handset is picked up, the relays will still remain energised because of low impedance DC path available (via cradle switch and handset) for the in-built diode of IC1. 

After completion of call when handset is placed back on its cradle, the low-impedance path through handset is no more available and thus relays RL1 through RL3 are deactivated. As shown in the figure, the energised relay RL1 switches on the light, while energisation of relay RL2 causes the path of TV speaker lead to be opened. (For dual-speaker TV, replace relay RL2 with a DPDT relay of 6V, 200 ohm.) Similarly, energisation of DPDT relay RL3 opens the leads going to the speakers and thus mutes both audio speakers. Use ‘NC’ contacts of relay RL3 in series with speakers of music system and ‘NC’ contacts of RL2 in series with TV speaker. Use  ‘NO’ con-tact of relay RL1 in series with a bulb to get the visual indication. 

Author : Dhurjati Sinha - Copyright : EFYmag

A Car Battery Monitor Circuit Diagram

A close call on the road can really focus your mind on the importance of having a battery monitor in a car. I had been enjoying a pleasant week of travelling around the countryside at a leisurely pace and taking in the beautiful scenery each day. It wasn't until the final day, with the big rush to return home, that I had to drive at night.My home is deep in the country and on the road I was travelling the closest petrol station may be 80km away. I was travelling through an area that is full of open-cut coal mines and large heavily loaded semi-trailers constantly pound the roads, travelling at quite high speeds. It was around 8pm at night and everything was very dark no street lights or house lights anywhere.

Just as I was going up a hill, the lights began to dim and the engine coughed. A large semi-trailer loomed in the rear-vision mirror as I pushed the clutch in and tried to restart. My speed was falling rapidly and my lights were blacked out - I was like a sitting duck in the middle of the road, as the semi-trailer came rapidly bearing down on me. I just managed to pull the car off the road, as the semi-trailer came screaming past, missing me by inches! After calling for assistance from the NRMA, the problem was found to be a fault in the alternator, which was failing to charge the battery. The battery voltage had been falling under the heavy load of the lights and at the worst possible time, there was not sufficient power for the lights or the motor.

After the initial shock wore off, I put on my thinking cap to come up with a PIC-based solution to the problem. What was really needed was a display and a buzzer, to get my attention should the voltage fall outside a specified range. So my design criteria was set, a series of LEDs could indicate the voltage and a buzzer would also be used to warn of problems.

Main Features:

• Visual indication of battery voltage
• Audible warning when voltage becomes low
• Screw terminals for easy connection
• Simple and easy to build

Circuit details:

The circuit is based on PIC16F819 18-pin microcontroller which has an analog-to-digital (A/D) input to monitor the battery voltage and outputs capable of driving LEDs directly, to keep the component count down. There are seven LEDs in all, giving a good range of voltage indication. The topmost LED, LED1, comes on for voltages above 14V which will occur when the battery is fully charged. LED2 indicates for voltages between 13.5V and 14V while LED3 indicates between 13V and 13.5V. Normally, one of these LEDs will be on. LED4 covers 12.5V to 13V while LED5 covers 12V to 12.5V. LED6 covers from 11.5V to 12V while LED7 comes on for voltages below 11.5V. These two LEDs are backed up by the piezo chime which beeps for voltages between 11.5V and 12V and becomes more insistent for voltages below 11.5V.

That might seem fairly conservative. After all, most cars will start with no troubles, even though the battery voltage might be a touch below 12V, won't they? Well, no. Some modern cars will happily crank the motor at voltages below 11V but their engine management will not let the motor start unless the voltage is above 11V. So don't think that a modern car will always start reliably. This little battery monitor could easily prevent a very inconvenient failure to start! So let's describe the rest of the circuit. The incoming supply is connected via diode D1 which provides protection against reverse polarity while zener diode ZD1 provides protection from spike voltages.

A standard 7805 3-terminal regulator is then used to provide a stable 5V to the microcontroller. The battery voltage is sensed via a voltage divider using 33kΩ and 100kΩ resistors. This brings the voltage down to within the 0-5V range for the A/D input of the PIC16F819. Port B (RB0 to RB7) of the microcontroller is then used to drive the various LEDs, with current limiting provided via the 330Ω resistor network. RB7, pin 13, drives a switching transistor for the piezo buzzer.

Software:

For the software, the design follows the basic template for a PIC microcontroller. Port A and its ADC (analog-to-digital converter) function are set up while port B functions as the output for the LEDs and buzzer. Once the set-up is complete, a reading will be taken at port RA2, the input for the A/D convertor. This reading is then compared with a series of values to determine the range of the voltage. This is similar to a series of "if" statements in Basic language. If the voltage is found to be within a certain range, the relevant port B pin will be turned on. If the voltage is below 12V, the buzzer will be turned on for a brief period, to signal a low battery condition. As the voltage falls below 11.5V, the frequency of the beeps will increase, to signal increased urgency.

Building it:

All the parts are mounted on a small PC board measuring 46 x 46mm (available from Futurlec). The starting point should be the IC socket for the PIC16F819, as this is easiest to mount while the board is bare. The next item can be the PC terminal block. The resistors and capacitors can then follow. Make sure the electrolytics are inserted with correct polarity.

Make sure that you do not confuse the zener (ZD1) with the diode when you are installing them; the diode is the larger package of the two.

Even more important, don't get the 78L05 3-terminal regulator and the 2N3906 transistor mixed up; they come in identical packages. The 78L05 will be labelled as such while the 2N3906 will be labelled "3906". And make sure you insert them the correct way around. The buzzer must also be installed with the correct polarity. The 330Ω current limiting resistors are all in a 10-pin in-line package. There are four green LEDs, two yellow and one red. They need to be installed in line and with the correct orientation.

Testing:

Before you insert the PIC16F819 microcontroller, do a voltage check. Connect a 12V source and check for the presence of 5V between pins 14 & 5 OF IC1. If 5V is not present, check the polarity of regulator REG1 and the polarity of the diode D1. If these tests are OK, insert the IC and test the unit over a range of voltage between 9V and 15V. Make sure that all LEDs come on in sequence and the piezo buzzer beeps for voltages below 12V. 

Now it is matter of installing the unit in your car. It is preferable to install the unit in a visible position for the driver. However, it should not obscure any other instruments. The unit should be connected to the car's 12V supply after the ignition switch. This will turn the unit off with the other instruments and prevent battery drain while the motor is not running.

Author :Alan Bonnard